Twenty five x 1 lb cones

Twenty five x 1 lb cones


>Close-up of Cones

Close-up of Cones


Knitted Piece

Knitted Piece


STATISTICS

3-ply Alpaca

630 yards / pound
- 25 pounds x 630 yards = 15,750 yards


The yarn has 12 wraps per inch, so 6 ends / inch for plain weave and 8 ends / inch for twill weave.

On 6.00mm knitting needles there are 15sts over 4 inches and 5 - 6 rows per inch in stockinette.


PROJECT ONE: FOUR SAMPLES

The aim is to produce four samples to show the thickness obtained with different densities - 8 threads (ends) per inch and 6 threads per inch - and different amounts of fulling - 20% and 30% of the original length (ool). One side of each sample will be brushed to show its effect, and two of the samples will have an edge fringed, rather than knotted to produce a raw edge. Each sample will be striped and the stripes for each sample will be a different shade of indigo.


Alpaca Project: Samples

WARP

Length = 107" - approx 3 yards

10% draw-in = 0.3 yards

Total length = 3.3 yards

Total Warp = 3.3 yards x 84 ends = 277.2 yards - approx 280 yards

WEFT

@8 threads per inch

8 threads/inch x 10.5 inches = 84 threads per sample

84 threads/sample x 2 samples x 12" throw = 56 yards for both samples

@6 threads per inch

6 threads/inch x 14 inches = 84 threads per sample

84 threads/sample x 2 samples x 16" throw = 75 yards for both samples

TOTAL WARP AND WEFT

411 Yards

STRIPES

@8 threads per inch

8 threads per stripe x 12" throw = 8 feet per stripe

4 stripes = 11 yards

@6 threads per inch

6 threads per stripe x 16" throw = 8 feet per stripe

4 stripes = 11 yards

TOTAL for stripes = 22 yards

OOL - of Original Length OFL - of Finished Length
20% 25%
23% 30%
25% 3%
30% 43%
40% 67%


DYEING STRIPES with INDIGO

The aim was to produce four skeins, each skein sufficient to weave two stripes in the samples above, and each skein different in shade.

I used the Liles' formula for the Lye/Thiourea vat, reducing the recipe to make a 1 gallon vat with 2gm indigo. The lightest samples were dipped for 5 minutes, the next darkest were dipped for a further 5 minutes, the next for a further 10 minutes, and the darkest were dipped for a further 25 minutes. The samples were thus dipped for 5, 10, 20 and 45 minutes respectively. Each skein of alpaca was accompanied by a very small skein of bleached white sheep's wool for comparison.

Sample Indigo Colours



WEAVING AND FINISHING THE SAMPLES

The aim was to weave four samples, the first two at 8 threads per inch and the second two at 6 threads per inch, and then to full one of each of these two densities to 20% of the original length (ool), and to full the second two to 30% ool - see diagram above.

The loom was threaded in a straight twill with no extra threads in the selvedge, and sleyed at 8 threads per inch (1 thread per dent in an 8 reed). All the samples were treadled in straight twill, with 84 shots per sample. Once the first two samples were woven they were cut off and the warp was re-sleyed at 6 threads per inch (3 threads per 4 dents in an 8 reed). There was spare warp at the end of the final sample so I wove a further seven inches, adding a graded indigo stripe with purple central.

Once off the loom, the sample warp ends were knotted, except for two edges on the first and last samples which were fringed with a twisted fringe. The samples were then fulled to the appropriate size, rinsed (the final rinse in slightly acid water) and allowed to dry slowly. The samples were then finished by cutting off the ends were colours or threads were changed, removing the knots, to produce a 'raw' edge, and the twisted fringes trimmed.

NOTES.

  1. Sample 2 took a long while to get to 30%, and was on the verge of turning to felt. The resulting fabric is quite 'hard'. Sample 4, woven at the looser 6 epi, could have been fulled further.
  2. Allow an extra 10% in length when weaving, as all the square samples have come out short in length when taken off the loom.
  3. Cut the weft changes before fulling rather than after.


The loom threaded

The loom threaded.

The loom sleyed.

The loom sleyed.

The loom set up.

The loom set up.

The warp tied-on.

The warp tied-on.

The first sample woven.

The first sample woven.

The first sample woven.

The first sample woven.

Samples at 8 threads per inch.

Samples at 8 threads per inch.

Close up at 8 threads per inch.

Close up at 8 threads per inch.

Samples at 6 threads per inch.

Samples at 6 threads per inch.

Close up at 6 threads per inch.

Close up at 6 threads per inch.

Sample @8 threads/inch (1)

After Fulling
Sample @8 threads/inch
20% OOL
with Twisted Fringe.

Sample @8 threads/inch (2)

After Fulling
Sample @8 threads/inch
30% OOL.

Sample @6 threads/inch (1).

After Fulling
Sample @6 threads/inch
20% OOL.

Sample @6 threads/inch (2).

After Fulling
Sample @6 threads/inch
30% OOL
with Twisted Fringe.

Sample @6 threads/inch (2).

After Brushing
Sample @8 threads/inch
20% OOL
with Twisted Fringe.



Sample 1 @ 8 epi Sample 2 @ 8 epi Sample 3 @ 6 epi Sample 4 @ 6 epi
Width Length Width Length Width Length Width Length
Off Loom 10.25 9.75 10.25 9.75 13.25 12.25 13.25 21.5
After Fulling 8.25 8 7.25 6.75 10.5 9.5 9.25 15.5
Difference 2.0 1.75 3.0 3.0 2.75 2.75 4.0 6.0
OOL 19.51% 17.95% 29.27% 30.77% 20.75% 22.45% 30.19% 27.91%